Life in Ankara, Turkey

Like many other Americans, I harbored some reservations about Turkey when my fiance first suggested the idea of moving abroad. Now, tomorrow marks 6 months since we landed in Ankara and I'm dragging my feet in planning our next destination.

Ankara, Turkey holds a population of 4.5 million+ and is second only to Istanbul which boasts a population of 14 million+ people. If Istanbul is the Beverly Hills of Turkey, Ankara is the Westwood Village. Ankara is an active but cozy city while Istanbul is decidedly more impressive and boisterous. In sum: Istanbul is for vacationing while Ankara is for living.

In 2012 when my fiance visited Ankara for work, I asked him to describe the city for me. At first I was frustrated trying to understand how it could be "peaceful" and "politically unstable" at the same time but upon arriving I soon learned what he meant.

Most people are just trying to live their lives, attending state universities for free or working 60 hours/week. Political unrest exists but mostly rises following elections like the recent one wherein Erdogan, the former Prime Minister of Turkey, was elected President.

Kocatepe, the largest mosque in Ankara, can accommodate 24,000 people

As the center of Turkish government, Ankara houses all foreign embassies. I visited the US embassy earlier this year when I unknowingly misplaced my passport in a taxi. Within 24 hours the embassy discovered which hotel I was staying at-despite the fact that my name wasn't even on the hotel records-and called for me to retrieve it. Thanks, NSA. Honestly it was scary, but reassuring that at least as an American I'm always safe here.

Since my fiance and I are both fortunate enough to work from home, most of our free time is spent cooking new foods (I can no longer live without Ottoman spice), taking walks in the park and practicing limited Turkish with our friends at the local grocery store Cagdas (pronounced Chadash).

While it hasn't all been sunshine and daisies, I've fallen in love with Ankara. There's a local Turkish saying that "the most beautiful part of Ankara is the road to Istanbul" but I don't mind - this way Ankara remains a hidden gem away from tourists for me to enjoy.

Good night Ankara, good afternoon Los Angeles!

*Note: I do not own any of these photos

1 Year Abroad!

Wow, it's already been exactly 365 days since my fiance & I left Los Angeles to travel halfway across the planet. While it was scary at first it has definitely been an amazing adventure I wouldn't trade for the world. To celebrate our first year away I thought it'd be fun to look at the year in review!

In this year we have been so fortunate to gain so many new experiences: my fiance worked at a top 10 company in the Middle East, I took my first managerial role before becoming a private consultant, we learned Arabic & Turkish, and so much more.

It was nerve-wracking and painful to leave our loved ones, home and comfort food behind

But we plunged into a new world together, moving up and exploring Dubai

We saw some pretty amazing sights

And started a new chapter of our lives together :)

 

In March 2014, we moved to Ankara, Turkey

And I quickly learned why people fall in love with this city

So far I've seen Istanbul, Abu Dhabi and Oman

And I can't wait to see where life takes us next!

From our engagement at the Jetty Lounge in Dubai, attending my first world conference (Arab Health 2014) & shopping at the Souks to enjoying the relaxed Turkish lifestyle, witnessing protests & releasing our first joint Android app, it's hard to believe how much has happened in one year.

To my dear fiance, if you're reading this, thank you so much for taking me with you on this adventure. There is so much to celebrate - new friends, languages, experiences, cultures - and I am so deeply appreciative of and humbled by these opportunities. While we still haven't decided where to head next (Spain, Indonesia, Greece?), I am happy anywhere as long as it's with you.

Turkish Vices

From NYC to Compton, each city has their preferred vices. Whether it's gambling, prostitution, or drugs, no place is free from crime or addiction. Ankara is a safe city sans political protests, but here's what I've noticed about vices in Ankara & local's preferences:

Alcohol

Alcohol is expensive but bars are commonplace. Don't purchase bottles from liquor stores as you will get ripped off as a foreigner - guaranteed. Stick to supermarkets like Ogutler, Cagdas, and Carrefour for alcohol. Restaurants also offer a variety of beers and mixed drinks so you'll feel at home. Some younger people drink publicly at parks during twilight, but of course discreetness is preferred.

Cigarettes

Cigarettes are more common in Ankara since they're less expensive than alcohol and keep you warm (important considering the cold climate). This was a surprising discovery since hardly anyone smokes in CA, comparatively speaking, and since there's a lot of hiking up hills - Turks must have lungs of steel!

Marijuana

Marijuana is available in Ankara although it is definitely illegal. I'm not sure about how common it is, where it's from and how it's obtained, or potency compared to what might be sold in CA. Anyone with medical conditions requiring marijuana as a treatment should plan carefully since medical marijuana cards mean nil in a foreign country. Remember you're not in Kansas anymore - respect your host country's laws and regulations!

Prostitution

Prostitution exists, especially for Russian women. I suggest asking locals about specific nightclubs to avoid to ensure you don't get roped in. 

Gambling

Gambling exists in the form of lottery tickets sold in popular areas and off-track betting parlors, but there are no casinos. I haven't seen any other types of gambling, like betting on a backgammon or sports game, but my experience here is limited. 

Extras

Harder drugs like cocaine may exist but keep in mind that economy determines vices. Rich people snort quality coke, poor people smoke crack - this goes for anywhere in the world. I'm unaware of the ubiquity, ease of access, frequency, price, or any problems with harder drugs in Ankara.

Keep in mind that everything I've mentioned above only applies to Ankara, and narrows down closer into our own little neighborhood of Tunali. 

Everything You Need to Know About Ankara, Turkey

If you're considering moving to Ankara, Turkey, here's a condensed list of everything you need to know from the economy and politics to lifestyle and personal living:

Fun Facts!
Turkey is a first world country with Ankara as its capital. Most people mistakenly assume the capital is Istanbul, but it's simply the most well known city. Bridging Asia and Europe, there is debate on whether Turkey is considered to be part of the Middle East or Eurasia.

Economy
Turkey is a cheap country and has been called "the cheap man's Rome" for good reason. As of this writing, 1 USD = 2.11 TRY (Turkish Lira). Depending on the position, the average Turkish job offers a salary between 1,000-3,000 TRY while physicians earn up to 6,000 TRY. It doesn't seem like much compared to what people earn in the US, but keep in mind that cost of living is cheaper, too.

Lifestyle
6 day work weeks are the norm, with people enjoying tea, smoking, and drinking for recreation. While Turkey is a Muslim country, alcohol is legal, but heavily taxed (Absolut Vodka runs $40 for a $20 bottle) so people prefer to smoke. Pubs, bars, and nightclubs are easy to find. Ankara's ~5 million population + low income means most people ditch the car in favor of walking and taxis.

Popular Areas
Just like LA, there are several smaller cities within Ankara. Popular areas include Tunalı Hilmi (Beverly Drive), Kızılay (DTLA), and GOP (Beverly Hills). Tunalı Hilmi is a long street filled with cafes, groceries, and clothing stores. Kızılay is cheaper and more crowded, so pay extra attention to your surroundings. GOP is a quieter, more upscale area with higher end restaurants and shops.

Environment
Leave your stilettos behind. Ankara is a rustic city built on a hill, so you'll be walking on unsteady, broken ground most of the time. Climate is cold with spring/summer between May-August and fall/winter the rest of the year. Extreme weather changes - from hail to sun - are not uncommon.

Politics
Despite being a first world country, government corruption does exist. Be aware that there is voter fraud and rigged elections. People are not afraid to protest for gay rights or against police hostility either; watch crowds when in seedier areas and be prepared to turn around if you sense an uprising.

Healthcare
Turkish citizens enjoy national healthcare but foreigners are recommended to purchase international health insurance before traveling abroad or check with their current providers about international coverage. Pharmacies can be found on every block with some medications (e.g. insulin, blood pressure) available without a prescription but dosage may vary.

Your Life in Ankara
$1,000 per month will cover all basic living expenses plus fun extras; the trick is to avoid Turkey's low wages by securing a telecommute job based in the US. There are slight differences between the Turkish and English alphabets but characters are largely the same. Homelessness is more common and I sadly recommend not donating to individual beggars as they will heckle you in the future.

Hopefully you found this list helpful and are better equipped to make a decision on whether or not Ankara is the place for you!